![]() ![]() Given the length of the loose-wire, there's only two places where it could have connected-to: the coil or this mostly hidden switch near the corner of the block. What do you have to remove in order to replace it? After connecting the wire, still have good spark, but no start. Is this the weakener solenoid? I can't see any fuel or vacuum-lines in that corner of the engine. I can't see the actual switch, just the bare, male-end of the spade connector. Upon a closer look, I found where it likely attaches: there's a switch mounted about an inch below where the loose wire originates, from the rear of engine-block's B-side. The loose wire I found is "hot" when key is on. Wish I had better news to report, but car still doesn't start. Where does the wire connect? It is only so long, so my guess is the coil. So, at this point, it is likely the weakener solenoid or the loose wire causing the problem. I don't remember if he swapped-out the distributor or just the points, but after 20 minutes along side the interstate, we were back underway. He had a distributor among the collection of spares in the support-vehicle station wagon following him. The cam-follower on the points broke-off. Didn't pay much attention to it until the car died, along with the noise. He noticed a weird squeaking while passing thru North Carolina. Jim, your thoughts reminded me of an incident when my dad was driving his MG-TC from Orlando to Vermont for a GOF (Gathering of the Faithful). I didn't connect it to the coil, wanting to ask first. It's a white (or off-white) wire with a green stripe, that appears to be one-half of a "Y" connection to a small metal cube underneath a metal fluid supply-line to the rear brake-pump. But in the process, I found a disconnected wire that looks like it should connect to one of the "negative" spades on the coil. Thanks to all of you for the replies! Shadow 11.did you post the reply at 3 or 4 in the morning? Up late, or up early? Regardless, thanks for the detailed response!ĬanaTurbo.I swapped rotors with my late '67, but made no difference. Any ideas as to what I should check next? In summary, have spark, but won't start even with starter fluid. Usually, if there's a fuel issue, car will run with starter fluid, then die as soon as you stop spraying. With a helper turning the key, I couldn't get it to run under the influence of starting fluid. Removed the air cleaner hose at the intake manifold, Choke looks normal (closed). That "B" side bank is a real bear! Still won't fire. 025, upon recommendation of the local R-R guru. Dimmer flashing on a plug wire, so out of caution, replaced the plugs with Champion RN12YC, gapped at. Healthy flashing on the tester, touching the coil wire to distributor. Checked for spark with my Champion Spark Tester pen. Presently, half a tank of gas, fuel pump acts normal. Points were installed prior to the brunch, and ran fine, so timing isn't an issue. Went to return the car yesterday and couldn't get it to fire. Garaged it upon returning home (so moisture isn't a factor). ![]() Ran great, avg'd about 11.5 mpg for the 160 mile trip at interstate speeds. Under no circumstances would I ever think of using ether in above freezing temps, especially in a gas motor.Strange situation: Drove a friend's early '67 Shadow to a RROC brunch about a month ago. A cheap 2,000 watt generator is usually under $400, compared to +$15,000 for a new motor if you should happen to blow up the diesel Even an hour makes a huge difference at -40. Usually 15-20 mins at -40 and it is ready to startĪnother option for the large HD equipment parked outside is to use a generator to run the coolant and oil pan heaters. These are quick couplers that allow hot coolant from a service/shop truck to rapidly heat the diesel motor block. One is a slave cooling system hookup to a service truck. A brief spray of ether into the intake before cranking, but not while crankingĪs far as point #1, if you have large HD equipment parked outside, there are 2 options. A gas motor at temps of -30 F or colder, not plugged in. I would *never* attempt to start a diesel in bitter cold temps just on etherĢ. A diesel motor that is rated to use ether, which actually has a factory ether injection system, and the block heater was only on for an hour or so in cold temps. ![]() The only time I would even consider using ether to start a motor is if:ġ.
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